Finally arrived - first views of Chefchaouen
LOCATION: Casablanca to Rabat to Chefchaouen
What's happening?
That was without a doubt the best sleep we have had in three days. Cocooned in the darkened air conditioned room - we were drawing those zzzs and were confident the 6.30 alarm would get us up on time.
Easily organised and ready for our first breakfast choices, that included our first try of the very sweet mint tea. Our host did the gigantic pour, trying to create the "Moroccan Champagne" effect of the bubble head of the tea. I am a definite fan! Mind you, i did have a little "spurt out of the nose moment" when @Mac asked "Where's my bacon?" Thinks he is sooo funny. Settled on his omelette with chicken sausage instead and washed it down with a conservative portion of pastries.
Settled into our 16 seater van with @TheRoyals and were introduced to our driver @Smail, (pronounced, appropriately "smile") at 8.15 am and hauled ourselves up the two flights of stairs to outer hotel room after our last walk in the medina at 10.30 pm. Big days ahead.
The Adventure
Took in some highlights of three cities today and spent a total of 6 hours in the bus getting from point A to B to C. May have caught a few zzzzzzs on the last long haul.
Some points of interest ....
In Casablanca
Hassien II Mosque
The dimensions of this mosque are mind blowing. 100 metres, by 200 metres with a minaret that reaches 210 metres into the sky, built over two levels on land reclaimed from the Atlantic, the mosque and its grounds accommodate 105 000 worshippers.
Started with a preview in the museum where each of the elements that made up the construction were featured -you had the chance to see the construction, carvings and mosaic elements up close.
@Mohammed then handed us over to the local mosque guide who conducted the tour of inside. He kept this larger group entertained with the facts and figures and was open to any questions.
My favourite parts: the cedar ceiling that retracted to open the mosque floor to the sky, the granduer and scale of the building that juxtaposed the simplicity of the worship space and the emphasis on the use of local materials in the creation of the building. Would be totally mind blowing to have seen a fortnight ago, jam packed for Eid.
The local guide was very quick to chastise one of the Chinese tourists from an adjoining group who had removed the shawl covering from her shoulders for her photos. Very quick to pounce on that!
Drive to Rabat
An 80 minute drive in comfort on the impressive motorway with maximum legal speeds of 120 kph. Kilometre after kilometre of white multi story residential buildings, with fleeting glances of the Atlantic and the occasional field, park or green space, all interspersed with @Mohammed's commentary that covered the geography, history and culture of the region. And of course, each collection of dwellings was always dominated by the easily recognisable tower of the mosque and its associated minaret.
I had a little smile because @Mohammed becomes very animated and practically "joyous" when he shares any information about his people "the berbers." It is closely followed by his enthusiasm for sharing stories about camels!
Rabat is the peaceful and beautiful laid back Imperial capital of Morocco. As the home of the beloved King, this place bordered by the absolute turquoise blue of the Atlantic was spotless. The workers were out with palm frond brooms sweeping the streets - literally. Not just one block or road, but everywhere. The lawns were manicured, the trees were green and the various arms of security, police and military where everywhere. We did the obligatory drive by of the Palace, the Roman ruins and the new Towers development and followed up with some exploration of a few areas on foot.
Hassan Tower & Mausoleum of Mohammed V:
The city's most recognizable symbol is the unfinished 12th-century minaret, surrounded by nearly 200 ancient columns. Right next to it is the stunning Mausoleum of Mohammed V. We entered through the gateway, permanently guarded by two mounted police.
Kasbah of the Udayas:
A picturesque, fortified citadel perched on a hill where the Bou Regreg River meets the Atlantic Ocean. It is famous for its winding, blue-and-white painted streets and the tranquil Andalusian Gardens hidden inside (yes, both @TheRoyals and @Macs had a little trouble finding it.) Also now the first attempt at a scam for us. We had specific instructions from @Mohammed on what to do and the route to take. In these sites, he can take us to the entrance but can't join us inside - you have to use a local guide. As we entered, a gentleman approached us and said we were heading the wrong way and that we sound hurry and follow him up an alley because it was closing soon. Forewarned, forearmed. We were not going to any Alley!
it was about views of the atlantic, art and doors with a garden chaser
Lunch at Marina Palms
The must do in Rabat is the fresh seafood. Or so they say. We obliged with fish and prawns at the Marina Palms. What can I say ... Australia does it better. In fact, the local fish shop at Daisy Hill does it better. But the mango smoothie was the highlight.
They're dreaming ... but the mango smoothie was great
Drive to the blue city of Chefchaouen
This was a four hour haul over 245 kms from the coast of Rabat and then up and over the scenic Rif Mountains.
We went from the easy highway drives to crazy crawling mountain traverserses behind slow moving trucks, local motorised rickshaws and donkey drawn carriages that test @Smail's driving ability.
Yesterday's note on the breakdown of dress now has swayed heavily to traditional garb with 95 per cent of women in long flowing robes and headcovering. The men - trousers and a shirt with only a handful in the long kaftan (@Mohammed told us its name ... need to check that out we will probably see that tomorrow - as Friday is the day of shared worship.)
Noted the proliferation of security- gendarmes, soldiers, police and royal guards. They were out in force and lined the highway between Rabat and who knows where ... but probably for the first hour of the drive. Apparently the King is currently out of Rabat and this level of security will be in place until his return. This personnel is probably placed at 500 metre intervals and they are on hand to converge if any problem is detected. The soldiers are stationed on the side of the road and there is an accompanying vehicle in the middle of the highway.
And this did seem to be the agricultural bread basket of Morocco. Livestock in small herds (sheep, goats, cows) everywhere, tended by the owners and many horses and donkeys. Prolific cultivation of melons, avocado, strawberries, cherries, chick peas and citrus fruits. Field after field of sunflowers. And not cultivation, but even vast ponds for the collection of rock salt.
And just saying, noone was sweeping any streets with palm fronds here - the small towns and markets were filthy.
One toilet stop broke our journey and finally we were at the lookout for the first views of Chefchaouen. A glistening blue and white gem hanging from the side of the mountain and nestled in the crevices.
Unfortunately, we didn't quite drive all the way to our riad, because the road had collapsed! Had to walk the last 500 metres up the hill while our luggage was ferried by a motorbike drawn trailer. Wish I could have rolled over and pretended i was a suitcase!!
This is home for two nights and we were happy to unpack, walk a few essentials before heading out to the terrace for the sunset, finding dinner in the restaurant and then taking a staircase riddled walk in the mountainside Medina. At this stage we are all running on auto pilot.
Our accommodation is like a little fairy kingdom decorated with mosaic tiled everything - a definite little haven of respite after a long day. We were more than happy to COLLAPSE and grateful that sunset, not sunrise is the goal for tomorrow. Means we have a later start planned for 9 am.
PS: An "oh darn" momemt: @Mac hadn't packed a water bottle for the trip. No worries, I had two and was happy to share. One snuggled in my handbag and my new red Thermos flask with a straw in @Mac's man bag. That lasted exactly till lunchtime. We had it on the table for access to some water but in the jumble of bill paying, tipping and co-ordinated toilet stops - we left without it!!! Darn. Back to one bottle.
Survival Barometer
Steps: 15 842
Weather: 27 degrees and hat worthy
Can you believe that?
A little background from Co-Pilot
Why Chefchaouen is BlueJewish tradition
In the 1930s, Jewish refugees fleeing Spain painted the walls blue to symbolize the sky and heaven. The idea was that living among blue reminded people of spirituality and God.
Mosquito theory
Locals say the blue pigment repels mosquitoes. Whether true or not, it became a practical excuse to keep repainting.Temperature control
Some argue the blue helps regulate heat, keeping alleys cooler in the Rif mountain sun.Tourism myth
Many outsiders assume the city was painted blue “for tourists.” In reality, the tradition predates mass tourism by decades.
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