The scale of the undercover marketsLOCATION: Leeds
What's happening?
We were fortunate to hook up with Tour Guide @Clifford today - otherwise known as @BiroGuyLeeds - for a four hour walking tour filled with easy conversation, fascinating background stories and a breadth of Leeds history and architecture. Found our way to @Joe and #CiaoBella for a late afternoon lunch. A perfect 11 out of 10 day.
@Clifford for the win - Leeds through an artist and historian's eyes (images from Clifford's website)The Journey
Mind you we were lucky we made it because, despite the bus being 15 metres down the road and the Leeds city skyline absolutely prominent in the distance had we looked, our interpretation of GoogleMaps had us on the wrong side of the road. Got on the bus with the query “Does this stop at the Corn Exchange” to which the bus driver scoffed and laughed in our faces while retorting “Only if your are on the other side of the road.” Oops.
Then tried to hop the next bus with the same query , this time a much gentler response, “It’s the one behind me.” For third time lucky, we struck up a conversation with a local in the queue, who was heading to the Corn Exchange and said “Follow me.”
I happened to jag a #crankyoldgit in the seat next to me who asked
“Australian? Huh, what a shocking country. You've got it bad over there."
"Not where we live," I retorted. But he was on a rant in a confined space. in the short version, he shared with me Leeds was rotten to the core. Can't trust government and not worth voting it's a sham. Leeds is controlled by Rome. All the buildings are a facade that hide Satan!
"Well you have nice day," was my only comment as we alighted and I was very grateful we only had four stops. His parting words: "Be careful out there"
My welcome to Leeds bus companion - #crankyoldgit - @Mac was very amusedNeeded a coffee after all that!
@Clifford found us right on the dot of 10.30. What a talent. He is a sketch artist (with coloured gel pens no less) and hosts niche tours around the history of Leeds and its architecture as well as Leed’s history of activism and non-conformity. A gentle pace, a gem at every corner, access to restricted areas and a city with so many stories - we seemed to be in the right place at the right time with @Clifford to capture some unique experiences.
Bit of a fan of the Corn ExchangeThrough his eyes we explored Leeds’ architectural masterpieces, famous for the beautifully preserved Victorian and Edwardian buildings, interwoven with striking modern designs. Had no idea we were in a retail Mecca that rivalled London’s Knightsbridge until we strolled through 19th-century shopping arcades showcasing stunning terracotta brickwork, mosaic floors, and sweeping wrought iron glass roofs.
Everything big, bold and beautifulWe started at the Corn Exchange. One of three highlights designed by a 27 year old architect Cuthbert Broderick. He was an unknown young architect from Hull when he entered an anonymous competition to design The Town Hall. It was his career launching masterpiece and was opened by Queen Victoria.
The Corn Exchange was described as his circular legendary creation and features a soaring oval dome roof. Loved this building which also featured an art works display for which @Clifford was one of the judges.
Love a libraryLots of discovery points for us including Leeds Central Library and the Tiled Hall Cafe (had hand written card catalogue which was still in use!!!!), the Town Hall and the Civic Hall (a depression project to provide employment), the Grand Theatre, the Grand Arcade, Thornton’s Arcade (perfectly timed for the 1 o’clock chime of the Ivanhoe Clock), Queen’s Arcade, Victoria Quarter (stained glass roof - largest in Europe - so wow), Victoria Gate (new one with graduated herringbone tiled floors that change texture to provide grip in wet weather), Kirkgate Market (one of largest in Europe - sold everything!) and St Paul’s House (bizarre, Moroccan influence)
One big pedestrian mall ! All easy to access and every building had a story - inside and out
Anytime we looked up, there was another story associated with a building and plenty of street art to fill in any gaps in things to see.
Contrasts of old and new - we only saw two examples of green space in this precinct Our most moving visit was to the Cut and Craft Restaurant in the Collinson Building. This was home to the most famous Leeds connection to the Titanic, and believe it or not, through the movies, we all know of this man. We were introduced to Wallace Hartley, the legendary bandmaster who famously directed his musicians to keep playing to calm passengers while the Titanic went down. As the story goes, when his body was found, he was still clutching his violin.
The floor where he was the resident musician before leaving for the fateful voyage, has been lovingly restored in this beautiful restaurant. @Clifford was able to take us up and down the stairways and onto the balconies here. We couldn’t just leave, had to make this our midday drinks stop.
Collinson Building - tour and drinks Also think this should be @MrsFry’s companion city. It is the home of the owl - they are everywhere and are part of the coat of arms for the city and date back to 1626 and King Charles 1. You can take a dedicated walking route called the Leeds Owl Trail, which points out 25 distinct owl sculptures hidden on historic rooftops, etched into stained glass windows, and carved into stone. @Clifford had us on the lookout!
The owls were everywhere Somehow we attracted the attention of a crew promoting a shelter workshop for reformed drug addicts. They produced, of all things, soap - and it was a play on "getting clean." We were interviewed for their promotion and coincidentally, @Clifford had attended their recent launch of the project. I scored a beautiful bar of soap for my words of encouragement. An interesting diversion in the day!
So glad they didn't ask me to climb in the bathWe enjoyed all of this walking without any cars! The entire inner city precinct is totally devoid of private cars - the only traffic is a loop that allows buses and taxis to pass. It is a pedestrian first mall - and made our stroll and exploration so much easier.
Could have travelled west to eastFinished our tour with a visit to the River Aire and the possibility of jumping in the adjacent canal and navigating our way to Liverpool and the Irish Sea or through to Goole and the North Sea. Wouldn’t that be an adventure.
Ciao BellaOur lunch stop was with @Joe at #Ciao Bella and we were joined by @Martine. @Joe cooked up another storm for us - our three late afternoon courses serving as both lunch and dinner, we did the offerings justice. I had to restrain @Mac from licking the plate! @Joe has been the head chef here for 16 years and it is an extremely popular local venue and also a magnate for corporate catering. He does attract lots of smiles because he is a Spanish chef in an Italian restaurant. Got a big licking tick from us.
Worried about our bus competency, @Clifford and @Martine walked us to the bus stop and handed us over to the bus driver. Made it home without incident and without a doomsday lecture. Rounded out the evening with feet up relaxation, a bottle of wine and no energy left for tomorrow’s plans. It will involve the car - and grateful to report, it is still there on the street, perfectly intact.
Survival Barometer
Steps: 11 205
Weather: 25 - perfect strolling weather
Today's Spot the J clue - there are three!
"I could be an etch-a-sketch tour guide!"