9: Who knew there was so much water in the desert?

An oasis in the middle of the desert - so much water

 LOCATION: Merzouga to Todra Gorge to Dades Valley

What's happening?

That's the end of our trek into the Sahara - our journey now will take us east towards the coast and eventually north to clos we the loop back to Casablanca. @Mohammed had shared that 45%of Morocco is mountains - we are still ringed by the Altas Mountains, cintinue to see ribbons of snow in the distance but we are making our way out through the gorges and passes.

Leaving the Sahara behind

The Adventure

Hardly seemed to have closed our eyes and the 5.30 am alarm was gently nudging us from sleep. A quick shower and it was back up the dunes (I found a sneaky back road that was a tramped hardened surface.) Yes, the sun did rise but it was shielded by a blanket of clouds on the horizon. We were there for sunrise over the Sahara but really a bit of a fizzer.

Not much a tion at sunrise and early farewell to the "luxury" camp

A very light breakfast (didn't want to revisit our brekkie on the swaying ride) and at 7.30 the camels were in the "parking lot" waiting for us. Our groins, inner thighs and bottoms were not quite as keen as yesterday to remount but that little string was the only way out to escape the "luxury" camp.

Another 50 minutes perched high, swaying and hanging on. The downhill bit is what "hurts." Got to hang on and lean back and try to stifle the omphs and ouches. But again, our mgaddami kept us entertained with his calls of "Africa, cous cous and targine" as he completed photographic duty.

Sunrise exit

All I could think about was that "Michael would not like this." The camel on the rope behind me, spent its trek with its big mouth on my thigh - chewing on its cud. It was chomp chomp, grind grind.

Very happy to see @Liz waving at us from the heights of the last dunes. Her adventure back had been a slipping, sliding and swerving affair in the 4 wheel drive vehicle.

Farewell to the camels and back in the van with sore bits at least comfortably cooled, we headed east.

Plenty of changing van views on today's journey 

More villages and towns, a stony desert now and the High Atlas and the Anti Atlas now framed the journey that revealed a dusting of green as we progressed further east and the break outs of olives and palms where water existed.

Always .. same but different ... keeps you on alert looking for next village

Plenty to see in our 5 hours total time in the drive today and always information to absorb and of course the trip broken with rest room stops and refreshments breaks.

Coffee breaks coincide with pryaer time
Maximum heat prediction was again 41 in the desert and by the time we were on the road the sensible locals were firmly shut inside their thick, mud brick walls. When we did see people, the women were head to toe in traditional dress with just their eyes showing. Increasingly the men, including @Mohammed were in robes and turbans. Grateful, that as we moved east, the temperature fell and we were out exploring in temps in the mid 30s. Much more comfortable.

Lots of traditional dress and farmers transport

There were two get out of the van highlights along the route.

The first was a descent into the wells of the kherrat. These mounds dominated the side of the road and were the surface access points to these gravity fed wells. Built as underground tunnels with vertical shafts, the kherrat channels groundwater using gravity, supplying farms with reliable water without pumps. This ingenious system supported date palms, cereals, and vegetables and for centuries, was collectively maintained. An ingenious method for sustaining life in this hyper arid region.

Up close exploring the interconnected wells

We had the opportunity to scale the stairs down into the well and walk the clay tunnels. This system of water access and management had supported the Berbers and Nomads for hundreds of years. These interconnected mounds stretched in this area for some 40 kilometres.

Steep cliffs in second part of gorge walk
The second was the hike through Todres Gorge. Wow. 90 minutes of jaw dropping scenery - it started with a walk through the farmland and village and ended up by tracing the gorge and tracking the water source to the mountain spring.
The gorge,towered above us in a sheer 300-meter-high  limestone wall that narrowed to just 10 meters wide. An absolute red tower, perched above the spring that relentlessly supplied the water for the Todra River.
We had the farmland almost to ourselves.  Balanced on muddy walls of channels, crossed wooden planks above the waterways, scrambled up rocky stairs and dodged frolicking dogs and children. This was a water wonderland and the pools and streams of various depths was a welcome respite for the locals. The local children we having a ball!

Lots more people on the paved roadway that took us to the end of the gorge. At its narrowest, we were jockeying for position with huge tourist buses.

Caves above us housed nomads with their goat herds, the walls were intermittently lined with stall holders and the waterway was one giant swimming pool.

Always a demo of some sort - 6 metres wrapped to make this turban

Rewarded at the end of the walk with lunch. Almost had the top floor of the overpacked restaurant to ourselves. We were tucked away out of sight and out of mind which may explain why our food was delayed. Did treat us to a free coffee though as an apology.

Had quiet spot for lunch

Averted a near disaster here. In the van, seat belts on and about take off and @Mac interrupted the departure for the last 45 minute drive with "My hat, has anyone seen my hat?" Mad scramble back to the top floor - and there it was. Phew! He told @Mohammed he would have cried if he had lost it. The bizarre ending to this whole interlude though was the interrogation that followed. @Smail and @Mohammed wanted to know if @Mac were a movie star? They were insistent.  Convinced he should have been on one of those billboards. Combined with the praise that he was a "humble man" for looking after his wife today - @Mac is getting all the attention.

Chalk and cheese between the "luxury" of yesterday and today's Kasbah. What a treat this was - a fortress set on the cliff face in Tailgh. Staff were exceptionally accommodating and helpful. The pool was literally an oasis. But the winner was the terrace that was our dinner venue. The date palms and the town stretched out below, the sunset put on a perfect show and the soup, salad, chicken and fruit, in its simplicity, was just what we needed.

Balcony views for dinner

We have carried a bottle of wine around since Fes. Finally got to pull up a seat in the gazebo and enjoyed it with @TheRoyals after dinner. Not sure on  the "why" but the terrace where dinner was served was not "registered" as a place where alcohol could be consumed. As it turned out, the gazebo was just the backdrop we needed to enjoy the night time views and the shared stories.

What life - so many great memories today

Camels at sunrise, water in wells and gorges to fill the heat of the midday and a kasbah for sunset. What a day. What a life.

PS After avoiding the camels because of her back pain, @Liz is in a bit of trouble from the 4 wheel drive spin in the sand dunes. Might be a non starter tomorrow.

PPS: Although given a wifi password, frustratingly, little to no reception here. A little tricky because we needed to make some adjustments to the UK part of the journey. 

Survival Barometer

Steps: 17 630

Weather: 32 much kinder

Can you believe that?

A little background from Co-Pilot.

🌍 Weird & Interesting Facts about Todra Gorge

Ancient trade route: For centuries, caravans passed through the gorge, linking Morocco’s Atlantic coast with the Sahara and beyond. It was a vital artery for salt, spices, and textiles.

Geological curiosities: The limestone walls, up to 300 meters high, are riddled with arches, holes, and natural sculptures shaped by water erosion over millions of years.

Mineral diversity: The cliffs are composed of calcite and dolomite, which shift colors dramatically with sunlight—from pale gold in the morning to crimson at dusk.

Today's Spot the J clue - are there any?

"Puzzling."

8: Riding the camels in the Sahara

Ready to take on the dunes 

 LOCATION: Sahara Desert Camp

What's happening?

What a hot old day that was. - by 10 am the temperature was 41 degrees and hovered around that mark all day. Genuinely should be described as a layover day. Well, half a layover day because we had a date with the camels at 6 pm!

The Adventure

The checkout time was noon which meant our first genuine sleep in for a while. It was late breakfast followed by a swim to start the day. A shower and then the long wait.

Filling in time without air conditioning in 41 degrees - no worries

In theory, we had access to an air conditioned room for relaxation - um, no sign of the air conditioning so everyone had to find their own version of cool. @Mac set up in a doorway with a breeze. I opted for outside- in the shade by the pool with a breeze. There was a sandstorm in the area from 2 pm till 5. Everything got closed up - which made it even hotter. I nestled up outside close to the walls and needless to say, was covered in a fine film of red dust. The sand and dust is so dry, it doesn't actually stick to you - it just dusts off. Was not the sort of sandstorm you see in the movies just a bit of wind  whipping over the loose surface.

Speaking of movies, lots of them made here and one of the alleyways featured the billboard posters of some of the blockbusters filmed here including Gladiator and The Mummy.

The water was being guzzled by everyone and by the time we were into the last bottles, it was positively hot. Could easily have brewed a cup of tea or coffee with it.

Excited to be headed out and geared up

Our date with the camels was scheduled for 6 pm and we joined dozens of others at the camel parking lot for pick-up. Some travellers were there for a four night trek from camp to camp. I was pleased that it was just an overnighter for us. 

Checking out the rides - any camel will do

First to leave were the quad bikers. They loaded up and climbed in formation over the dunes. @Liz was a non starter on the camels because of her back and hitched a ride with the luggage transport. 

Leg over, lean back, hold on and arms straight. We were on board the ships of the desert for a swaying, undulating ride through the dunes. Not sure we ever got to the serene, comfortable and relaxed on our 50 minute ride but that was the vision @Mohammed had first the group.  Lots of rubbing and chaffing happening - especially where a seam in your trousers was a barrier between the wide rough saddle and your skin. Some very sensitive spots got a shellacking. Very high temperatures even at this time and still that hot breeze blowing through open spaces in the dunes.  

Up amd away - ouch in some spots! Going downhill was hardest

Our camels did a super job, chewing and pooping through the sand, hanging on narrow paths on the side of the dunes. Equally, our mgaddami (camel leader) was very engaged, taking the phones and running up and down the line taking photos and videos. The camels seem to know the path - mind you, there were always multiple paths leading to many camps - they just ambled on - occasionally deviating as they were distracted by a clump of grass.

Are we there yet? Glad to be on the ground!

We were all glad to be off the swaying humps and on the semi solid ground of the dune. @Bill had a bit of a slip and slide entrance to the camp and was flailing and out of control on his descent in the sand. Gave us a perfect heads up on what not to do - and we made a more elegant entry side ways down the slippery slope. 

@Bill showing us how NOT to do it!

The end point for us was just outside of our "luxury" camp and we were encouraged to 'play' in the sand. Luxury and play probably need rethinking as descriptors. 

The camp
The play was running up and down the sand dunes and jumping on a snow board to ski your way back down. Um, no. Just walking either up or down the slipping face was enough.

@Mac scaled the dunes, the young ones frolicked, @Liz and I sat out this one

I took up a position in the love heart seat and @Mac did the ascent chasing the sunset. His estimate was four sunsets - as you scaled another dune and changed the viewing angle, it gave the illusion of another sunset as the sun dipped behind the next dune.

My hero, climbed the dunes for the sunset views

The camps are one after another in the valley between the dunes. Row after row of tents, divided by lantern lit pathway.  Each camp featured an indoor dining area and an outdoor entertainment spot set around an open fire.

The tents themselves housed a bed and a bathroom with a settee outside. The luxury tag comes because there is an air conditioning unit in the room and five rolls of toulet paper! The luxury of the bed was a mattress set atop a raised concrete slab. 

The sheets were gritty with very fine sand and the bed itself felt hot because the heat from the concrete was seeping through the mattress - sort of like an electric blanket.

Towels eventually were delivered and we were in real luxury, becuase our air con worked. @TheRoyals - not so much. Eventually sorted the problem with new batteries in tthe remote. They are both still heavily invested in loo rotations and found it very handy to be able to slip into the adjacent tent and take advantage of a second toilet. 

Rocked up for a simple meal - only one other groups in camp woth us on this sode of the dune - a very strident group of 8 from somewhere in Asia.   

Post dinner, wandered over to the next camp for the entertainment. An ensemble of guitar and drums - making noise rather than music to pur ears.. And surprise - who was one of the drummers? None other than out @Mahommed. Bashing up a storm. 

The dancers we expected? That was us. The audience were invited to jump up around the fire to join in the spinning dervish. 

Lots of people were filing in from adjoining camps amd many were gathered around tables in large noisy groups drawing smoke from the Long thin African pipe the sebsi. According to @Mohammed, it was fragrant herbs rather than cannabis. 

We followed @TheRoyals in a very stealthy exit to avoid the outer and the dancing.

Camels at 6 pm, dune frolicking at 8.00, sunset 8.20, dinner at 9, entertainment at 10.30 and "luxury" tent at 11.30. Need a PA to supervise our schedule.

I hope Fatima is resting - we have to ride out tomorrow morning at 7.30!!!

Survival Barometer

Steps: 13 877

Weather: hit 41 for quite a few hours

Can you believe that?

A little background from Co-Pilot.

🐪 Weird & Amazing Camel Facts in Morocco’s Sahara🌵 Hump MythThe hump stores 35–40 kg of fat, not water.Camels convert this fat into energy and even small amounts of water when food is scarce.

🚢 Ship of the DesertTheir slow, swaying gait feels like riding waves.Wide padded feet act like sand snowshoes, preventing sinking into dunes.

👀 Natural Desert GogglesCamels have long eyelashes and a third eyelid that works like goggles.They can close nostrils to block sandstorms.

💧 Extreme HydrationA thirsty camel can drink 100–150 liters of water in minutes.Their oval-shaped red blood cells keep circulation even when dehydrated.

Today's Spot the J clue - I think there is at least one

"I'm setting up in my luxury tent."

7: The camels were calling

Perched on the lip of Ziz Gorge in the Atlas Mountains following hundreds of kms of date palms

 LOCATION: Fes to Midelt to Merzouga

What's happening?

Stepped outside and hit the breakfast table (oh my, chocolate cake and chocolate and almond crepes served this morning!) You don't choose here, set "plates" are prepared and offered - the choice is how you would like your eggs. We are top notch health wise but @Bill continues his battle with traveller's tummy.

Breakfast and straight onto the bus

A quick getaway on the dot of nine (another advantage of a small group - no one is late) and boarded the bus with @Mohammed and @Smail for our big day of driving.

The Adventure

The journey today takes us south east over the Middle Atlas towards the High Atlas and through the valley of the Ziz Gorge - this valley stretches for about 300 kms.

Lots of driv9ng and most of the views from the confines of the bus

 Again, roads impressive - sealed, maintained and supervised with ever present checkpoints, radar guns and personnel presence. Not much traffic on a Sunday and we made excellent time to our first stop at Ifrane or "little Switzerland."

Leaving the city, the route slipped quickly into rolling farmland where olive groves, wheat fields, and orchards dominated the plains. This plain was rolled so flat and was bordered by the rise of distant mountains.

Hills, changing colours and shapes, small settlements - didn't realise you were constantly climbing

Villages appeared with mud‑brick houses - all red and blocked and square sitting squat and low. Roadside produce stalls popped up randomly and farmers were busy guiding donkeys across the fields — a quiet rhythm of rural life that, according to @Mohammed, hasn’t changed much in generations. Many villages however, are abandoned today, as young people move to the city chasing opportunity.

Our first mountain town was Immouzer Kander (the town of the waterfall just 35 kms out of Fes) and I mention it because the architecture has changed dramatically to reflect the altitude - lots of sloping rooftops to deal with the winter snowfall. Only an hour south of Fes, this town features "camps" which are hotel complexes owned by companies, where workers can come to spend a few days of holidays at a very reasonable price. As always, the ever present domination of the skyline by the minarets, plenty of police out in force, market stalls on the road side, tended animal herds , prolific apples, olives and grapes and countless cafes overflowing with relaxing men sipping coffee and smoking. 

Long line of cadets - altitude training 🤣

We passed a line of cadets here. Apparently all men and women aged 19 to 24 are eligible through a lottery census to spend 12 months in military training. You fill in your details and then a "draw" selects the candidates for the physical, arms and strategic training course. We saw this group on their training run - apparently taking advantage of the altitude training as part of their fitness regime. @Mohammed missed the call up as the system was only reintroduced in 2019 and he was, by then, "too old."

Pristine clean - could eat off the street!

Entered the mountain town of Ifrane, perched at altitude and known as little Switzerland. Home of a big private university it hosts 2 000 students from all over Africa. The town is divided into two - left side, all Royal Residence .... meant that the right side was polished spotlessly clean - every road, building and park pristine.

Cherries - the equivalent of $4 a kilo

On this drive, there was a surprise at every corner and crest. Just south of Ifran the Bedouin camps started to appear and on another rise, @SmaiI pulled us into the carpark of the abandoned ski lift to see the Barbary Macaques. They are native to Morocco - here of course, the vendors with peanut supplies keep them close for tourists. Not our thing, but other groups were feeding them and allowing them to jump on their heads, shoulders and back. @Mohammed had asked us not to feed them (I was never a chance) because if we were scratched or even worse, bitten, we would need to get to medical help for "the injection."

Check out the teeth - I'd need a defibrillator rather than an 💉 if one bit me

It was scene after scene - village after village. Changing heights. Changing colours. The road thinning. The plain expanding and contracting. The mountains near and far. No water. Water in a ribbon. Water everywhere. Permanent towns, military bases, Bedouin, nomads, donkeys replaced by camels. At one stage I felt like I had one of those old red ViewMaster flicking toys where you put that little slide show in. The landscape change was so quick and dramatic - it doesn't make sense, but it was the SAME but DIFFERENT at every turn or crest of a hill.

Threads of snow streak the distant Hihgh Atlas

Higher still, the land turned rocky and dramatic, with nomadic tents scattered across the plateaus. South of Midelt, the scenery shifted again: barren ridges, copper‑colored cliffs, and the first hints of desert.

Stones on the cliff faces advertising the business - resourceful

Rock mining and fossils were very important here. Colourful vanadinite (fiery red, orange and brown crystals,) prized by collectors and according to Dr Google, best in the world found here in Morocco) mined in this area and used in jewellery making was featured in this part of the valley as we continued the traverse through the High and Middle Atlas Mountains. 

There was a slight dusting of snow still visible in the distance at 3 517 metres as we stopped for roadside cherries in the Apple Capital of Morocco. Go figure. @Smail was very quick to jump out of the vehicle and over rule @Mohammed washing our cherries in the local spring. Took over and washed from our bottled water. 

Big apple - one to welcome as you arrive - one as you leave

Broke the journey with a lunch stop with a local apple farmer. Apple did not appear on the menu but we did have a vegetable targine, roasted chicken, noodles and lentils - all delicious. This was followed by a banana chaser and a mint tea under the shade of the orchard trees.

Check out the colours of lunch, our shoes at the door, the volume of food and the high pour in the orchard. Not sure that @Mac's face says he is a fan of the mint tea.

Back to the driving. Countryside continued to provide compelling viewing. Deep in the wide valley with an outline of mountains there is always something to spot. Definitely not so much agriculture this far south but continued mining to discuss, army bases and prisons, wind turbines and absolutely randomly located hotels and cafes and service stations to distract you.

Surprisingly, still vestiges of green but the buildings look like something out of a movie set

The Atlas Mountains grew ever closer and once the traverse of the Ziz valley had started it was a never ending vista of squared mud houses set low to the ground, deep gorges cut with a ribbon date palms. Spectacular drop offs into the valley below, turquoise water stained from the ice melt of the Atlas Mountains and jagged rocky cliff faces much closer to the road.

Having a stretch out of the van - huge volume of water

 There were short stops for us above the palms and above the dam - short chances to stretch the legs, un numb your bottom,  visit the toilet (always scrambling for a coin to pay) a d refill the water bottles from the om board fridge. 

perched above the palms and the villages below

 Continued to add more dust, stony waterways, thermal springs, dams and patches of green palms in dotted oases. In places, the mountains were like pale brown dough, lifted and folded and flowing into the valley. We worked our way down to 2000 metres and even came across a town dedicated to hunting birds and sponsored by investment from Qatar. 

As a connection to the past, did note that we were travelling along the old route of the camel caravan train and could pick out the remnants of once impressive kasbas perched high on the cliffs as strongholds to guard the camel trains and impose the tax collection.

 We travelled very close to the Algerian border (I think @Mohammed said 20 kns) and there was an impressive stronghold at the very last military outpost at Errachudia.

Palm leaves used to control sand - good luck with that
There were breakout areas where low sand dunes had formed and they were being controlled and stabilised by an intricate mesh of dead palm fronds. This was an attempt to halt their movement and to keep them from encroaching on the road.

The final stretch toward Merzouga opened into vast desert plains where villages thin out, camels appear along the roadside, and the dunes of Erg Chebbi rise like what appears to be a golden mirage. Huge 200 metre dunes start to come into focus out of the horizon. And at last, we were on the edge of the dunes and home.

The first dunes...

That was a wrap on a 500 kms for today's journey. We left our hotel in Fes at 9 am and arrived in Merzouga at 7.15. It was probably the first drive of that length I have ever taken where I haven't had a little snooze. It was ever changing - so expansive, so stark but so alive. Wouldn't change a thing.

Welcome to our palace

The welcome weather at our hotel was 38 degrees at 7 pm. Time for a walk, a dip in the pool and dinner - surrounded by the sand and sounds of the Sahara.

Almost private dining - not many guests

Had a great buffet feast with the group and over spiced vegetables and meat, sipping not quite cold lemonade with @TheRoyals and @Mohammed we laughed and ate our way through solving the problems of the world, the blessings of family and friends, the gift of opportunity, before moving onto strategies for finding a partner for @Mohammed and fine tuning his business plan. By the time we found our door at 116, @Mohammed had recruited and offered us jobs as trusted employees as drivers, finance managers, customer service officers and marketers. I think tomorrow we might get an offer for a share in the business. 

Goodnight from the Sahara

Survival Barometer

Steps: 8 036

Weather: desert hot - 38 at 7 pm when we arrived

Can you believe that?

A little background from Co-Pilot.

Weird and Interesting stuff about ZIZ GORGE

1. The gorge was carved through what used to be an ancient seaThe red sandstone and limestone walls of the Ziz Gorge are actually sedimentary layers from prehistoric marine environments, meaning the whole region was once underwater.

2. The French Foreign Legion blasted a tunnel straight through the cliffThe famous Tunnel des Légionnaires was carved by French colonial troops in the early 20th century to force a passage through the gorge. It’s short, rough, and looks like something out of an adventure film — but it’s still the main road today. WE WENT THROUGH IT!

3. The gorge marks one of the oldest Saharan caravan routesFor centuries, caravans carrying dates, spices, and Saharan goods passed through the Ziz Gorge on their way north. Even the Roman general Gaius Suetonius Paulinus crossed it in the 1st century CE while leading troops across the Atlas. 

4.The cliffs reach up to 300 meters highThe canyon walls tower up to 300 m, creating a dramatic vertical corridor of red rock. The N13 road clings to the edge, giving you those surreal “am I supposed to be driving here?” moments.

5. The gorge feeds one of the world’s largest palm oasesJust south of the gorge, the Ziz Valley explodes into over 150 km of continuous date palms, one of the largest palm groves on Earth. The contrast between barren cliffs and a green carpet is so extreme it looks fake from above.

6. The dam at the southern gate creates a lake in the desertThe Hassan Addakhil Dam forms a bright blue reservoir right at the gorge’s southern end — a surreal sight in such an arid region. It’s also the main water source for the entire Tafilalet.

Today's Spot the J clue - there are lots! Sometimes they are tricky

"Nanny and Grandad, you might need some sunscreen."