Wednesday, July 15, 2026

36: Rocks and castles outside Leeds

Hanging about with the locals

LOCATION: Leeds

What's happening?

Woke to another clear day in Leeds and @Mac and @Joe had hatched a plan overnight for today's adventures. Months ago @Joe had suggested we needed to put Brimham Rocks and Knaresborough on the agenda. Lucky for us, it was his day off and he could join us and act as today's tour guide.

The Adventure

Of course, the drive had to involve country lanes, shared with farm vehicles and at times it was a slow grind. The views once again limited by the persistence of the hedges that seem to tower over our little Mini.

New navigator and new tour guide

Places we visited today:

Brimham Rocks: There was a representative from the National Trust in the carpark to give us a little heads up on what to expect and share some recommendations for highlights. He explained that there were ancient millstone grit formations (I had to look it up - extremely tough erosion resistant rock - was used to make millstones for centuries and the name has stuck.) The region has been  shaped over 320 million years and sculpted further by Ice Age frost‑shattering. Towers like Dancing Bear, Idol Rock, and Cannon Rock balance on ridiculously small bases - and their  strange curves have been carved slowly and persistently by wind, rain and glacial cold.

Exploring the rock formations

We had a map with all the names on it - but were not sure if we had it the right way up because we were definitely having trouble identifying oysters, flowers , a druid's writing desk or a turtle? 

@Mac trying to move the balancing rock

It was a children's paradise - and there were plenty of little people scampering around, climbing up the rocks and squeezing through the gaps

Made up our own interpretations

A lady here introduced us to "bagging trig points" - a common practice for hikers. We had to climb to the highest point and get a photo, as evidence that we had reached the triangular marker. Should have started this a month ago!

Bilberry shavers!
Teeny tiny - if you look hard you can see my purple stained teeth!

Our lessons continued when we came across another couple shaving the top of a low lying bush. When I asked her what was happening, she explained they were collecting "bilberries." It is an annual event for them and they make an excellent pie filling. The lady explained her recipe in detail - we found it amusing given that chef @Joe was all ears. We got into the picking act and followed up with the eating. Tiny little berries - apparently rich in antioxidants.

Spent a couple of hours here before an easier drive to our next stop.

@Joe bought us a badge souvenir to remember our visit (flower badge for me) - they will find a place in our souvenir cabinet at home 😍

Knaresborough: A very beautiful town. It curves along the River Nidd, with a centre piece of a picture perfect viaduct with arches rising above the water while the castle ruins crown the cliffs. Stone bridges, winding lanes and riverside boats, flowers, steep laneways and steps. Allllwwwaaaayyyssss steps.

Th bridge for vehicle traffic

The viaduct for the train

We could see the entrance to Mother Shiptons Cave - England’s oldest tourist attraction (charging admission since 1630) and home to the legendary prophetess and the petrifying well that turns objects to stone. With that billing, I was glad that it was CLOSED today.

Pub with a view .. and stairs, of course

Pulled up a view from the pub for lunch and then scaled the cliff face to the castle for the prime view of the train crossing the viaduct.

Had a little fun because there were two bare chested "lads" on the steps to the Castle bellowing their support for England and swigging from cold bottles of lager. They were keen for a chat and as I deviated from the predicted path in my climb of the cliff, left them with a message for @Mac and @Joe - which surprisingly was dutifully delivered. 

Forever up and down in Knaresborough 

The castle has been here since the 1100s and was a favourite fortress of King John. Great viewing platform but of course so many steps to climb before and after. It is a combination of both standing and tumbled towers and tunnels but has the best view over the Nibb.

A 40 minute drive home and a little time for a shower before dinner. Parking here is on the street - first in best dressed. And the rules in England are different from home. You can park in either direction- @Mac took  a space on the opposite side of the road facing in the wrong direction. We have been commenting on how weird this is - but admitting, it was convenient for us this afternoon. 

Very convenient to park whatever way you want - hope we can get out in the morning

@Joe has been ordering the uber equivalent for us here - have been unable to download the app and register for ourselves. But has all worked out. Only trouble is, we have to pay in cash and we are down to the last few coins and notes. Our driver this evening wasn't keen to take a "tarnished" one pound coin - had to swap it out. Not sure what that is about but grateful that @Martine could check our stash for the later fare.

World Cup support for Spain: Joined the family at the local pub for dinner and a great night of cheering on the winners of the semi-final. @Joe had been down earlier in the week and chosen and reserved our table. We had the prime position and were very vocal in getting Spain across the line. It was easy to be vocal, because everyone in the pub was cheering for Spain!

Team Spain - best reserved seats

Of course, during the half time break, the "other game" became the focus. They never let up!

Eating, cheering, gaming ... some tense moments

And that was the end of our time with @Joe and family. So sad to say goodbye and the reality is that a face to face in the future is probably not going to happen. Going to have at least have some verbal conversations moving forward. 

Too tired to pack - set the alarms instead because we have plenty of time tomorrow morning before we set off on the first leg of our homeward bound journey.

Survival Barometer

Steps: 14 865

Weather: 25 - so fortunate with the weather

Today's Spot the J clue - there are two!

"How we all felt when Spain won!"



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