LOCATION: Merzouga to Todra Gorge to Dades Valley
What's happening?
That's the end of our trek into the Sahara - our journey now will take us east towards the coast and eventually north to clos we the loop back to Casablanca. @Mohammed had shared that 45%of Morocco is mountains - we are still ringed by the Altas Mountains, cintinue to see ribbons of snow in the distance but we are making our way out through the gorges and passes.
The Adventure
Hardly seemed to have closed our eyes and the 5.30 am alarm was gently nudging us from sleep. A quick shower and it was back up the dunes (I found a sneaky back road that was a tramped hardened surface.) Yes, the sun did rise but it was shielded by a blanket of clouds on the horizon. We were there for sunrise over the Sahara but really a bit of a fizzer.
A very light breakfast (didn't want to revisit our brekkie on the swaying ride) and at 7.30 the camels were in the "parking lot" waiting for us. Our groins, inner thighs and bottoms were not quite as keen as yesterday to remount but that little string was the only way out to escape the "luxury" camp.
Another 50 minutes perched high, swaying and hanging on. The downhill bit is what "hurts." Got to hang on and lean back and try to stifle the omphs and ouches. But again, our mgaddami kept us entertained with his calls of "Africa, cous cous and targine" as he completed photographic duty.
All I could think about was that "Michael would not like this." The camel on the rope behind me, spent its trek with its big mouth on my thigh - chewing on its cud. It was chomp chomp, grind grind.
Very happy to see @Liz waving at us from the heights of the last dunes. Her adventure back had been a slipping, sliding and swerving affair in the 4 wheel drive vehicle.
Farewell to the camels and back in the van with sore bits at least comfortably cooled, we headed east.
More villages and towns, a stony desert now and the High Atlas and the Anti Atlas now framed the journey that revealed a dusting of green as we progressed further east and the break outs of olives and palms where water existed.
Plenty to see in our 5 hours total time in the drive today and always information to absorb and of course the trip broken with rest room stops and refreshments breaks.
Maximum heat prediction was again 41 in the desert and by the time we were on the road the sensible locals were firmly shut inside their thick, mud brick walls. When we did see people, the women were head to toe in traditional dress with just their eyes showing. Increasingly the men, including @Mohammed were in robes and turbans. Grateful, that as we moved east, the temperature fell and we were out exploring in temps in the mid 30s. Much more comfortable.
There were two get out of the van highlights along the route.
The first was a descent into the wells of the kherrat. These mounds dominated the side of the road and were the surface access points to these gravity fed wells. Built as underground tunnels with vertical shafts, the kherrat channels groundwater using gravity, supplying farms with reliable water without pumps. This ingenious system supported date palms, cereals, and vegetables and for centuries, was collectively maintained. An ingenious method for sustaining life in this hyper arid region.
We had the opportunity to scale the stairs down into the well and walk the clay tunnels. This system of water access and management had supported the Berbers and Nomads for hundreds of years. These interconnected mounds stretched in this area for some 40 kilometres.
The second was the hike through Todres Gorge. Wow. 90 minutes of jaw dropping scenery - it started with a walk through the farmland and village and ended up by tracing the gorge and tracking the water source to the mountain spring.
The gorge,towered above us in a sheer 300-meter-high limestone wall that narrowed to just 10 meters wide. An absolute red tower, perched above the spring that relentlessly supplied the water for the Todra River.
We had the farmland almost to ourselves. Balanced on muddy walls of channels, crossed wooden planks above the waterways, scrambled up rocky stairs and dodged frolicking dogs and children. This was a water wonderland and the pools and streams of various depths was a welcome respite for the locals. The local children we having a ball!
Lots more people on the paved roadway that took us to the end of the gorge. At its narrowest, we were jockeying for position with huge tourist buses.
Caves above us housed nomads with their goat herds, the walls were intermittently lined with stall holders and the waterway was one giant swimming pool.
Rewarded at the end of the walk with lunch. Almost had the top floor of the overpacked restaurant to ourselves. We were tucked away out of sight and out of mind which may explain why our food was delayed. Did treat us to a free coffee though as an apology.
Averted a near disaster here. In the van, seat belts on and about take off and @Mac interrupted the departure for the last 45 minute drive with "My hat, has anyone seen my hat?" Mad scramble back to the top floor - and there it was. Phew! He told @Mohammed he would have cried if he had lost it. The bizarre ending to this whole interlude though was the interrogation that followed. @Smail and @Mohammed wanted to know if @Mac were a movie star? They were insistent. Convinced he should have been on one of those billboards. Combined with the praise that he was a "humble man" for looking after his wife today - @Mac is getting all the attention.
Chalk and cheese between the "luxury" of yesterday and today's Kasbah. What a treat this was - a fortress set on the cliff face in Tailgh. Staff were exceptionally accommodating and helpful. The pool was literally an oasis. But the winner was the terrace that was our dinner venue. The date palms and the town stretched out below, the sunset put on a perfect show and the soup, salad, chicken and fruit, in its simplicity, was just what we needed.
We have carried a bottle of wine around since Fes. Finally got to pull up a seat in the gazebo and enjoyed it with @TheRoyals after dinner. Not sure on the "why" but the terrace where dinner was served was not "registered" as a place where alcohol could be consumed. As it turned out, the gazebo was just the backdrop we needed to enjoy the night time views and the shared stories.
Camels at sunrise, water in wells and gorges to fill the heat of the midday and a kasbah for sunset. What a day. What a life.
PS After avoiding the camels because of her back pain, @Liz is in a bit of trouble from the 4 wheel drive spin in the sand dunes. Might be a non starter tomorrow.
PPS: Although given a wifi password, frustratingly, little to no reception here. A little tricky because we needed to make some adjustments to the UK part of the journey.
PPS: Although given a wifi password, frustratingly, little to no reception here. A little tricky because we needed to make some adjustments to the UK part of the journey.
Survival Barometer
Steps: 17 630
Weather: 32 much kinder
Can you believe that?
A little background from Co-Pilot.
🌍 Weird & Interesting Facts about Todra Gorge
Ancient trade route: For centuries, caravans passed through the gorge, linking Morocco’s Atlantic coast with the Sahara and beyond. It was a vital artery for salt, spices, and textiles.
Geological curiosities: The limestone walls, up to 300 meters high, are riddled with arches, holes, and natural sculptures shaped by water erosion over millions of years.
Mineral diversity: The cliffs are composed of calcite and dolomite, which shift colors dramatically with sunlight—from pale gold in the morning to crimson at dusk.
Today's Spot the J clue - are there any?
"Puzzling."
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