LOCATION: Marrakech to Essaouira
The Adventure
An easy day as we approach the end of the trip. We travelled due east today from Marrakech to the Atlantic seaside town and former royal port of Essaouira.
A contrast in landscape fading from desert heat to Atlantic breezes and were welcomed to a massive stretch of beach at low tide and crowds taking advantage of the afternoon sun and the cool water of the Atlantic.
Leaving Marrakech, the burnt reds of that inland city dissolved quickly into open flat and sandy plains. They were becoming increasingly green, with the High Atlas fading in the distance, the traverse of this coastal stretch was nowhere near as dramatic as our days of crossing the desert and the mountains. The road was smooth and mostly straight, passing through farmlands of olive groves, dusty villages, and long stretches of scrubland and the black dots in the distance of the goat herds.
Olive trees were replaced by Argan trees. These valuable sources of oil were managed by village cooperatives where women crack the nuts by hand. It is home to the "tree climbing goats" - where, in search of food, the goats climb the trees and balance impossibly on branches. Didn't see them - but did get to watch @Mohammed demonstrate the tedious task of extracting the seeds.
Small towns broke up the drive, and 13 days into the trip @Mac has scored a coffee that he rated as a winner.
Near Essaouira, the landscape became sandy and wind‑sculpted. Dunes gathered along the roadside, trees leant permanently sideways, and the Atlantic welcomed us as we crested a small hill.
Our home for two nights is the Atlas Essaouira. Wow. Massive, five star luxury and our room was a suite. Disappointingly, with a swishing draw of the curtain our view was of a concrete Plaza at the back of the hotel. I hightailed it to the front desk to ask if we could have an ocean view. And, amusingly, @Liz was three steps ahead of me asking for the same thing!
Moved from the rear end of the first floor, to the front of house 3rd floor and quietly rearranged the furniture to take advantage of the view.
Essaouira’s beach is massive — wide, clean, and stretching all the way to the village of Diabat. Sandhills on the southern end offered camel and horse rides (we declined numerous offers) and the receding tide seemed to provide perfect opportunities for the kite surfers.
@TheRoyals were keen for a dip - we opted for a paddle. Hard to know exactly what is appropriate dress here for swimming. The attire for ladies ranged from head to toe robes dragging through the shallow water, to shorts and shirts, some two piece outfits and bikinis. There was one young lady stretched out under an umbrella, near naked, wearing a piece of black cord wrapped around her body. I don't think I have ever seen a swim suit so brief!
With the maps app in hand we made the 2 km trek north, into the medina to find the Fishburger Restaurant a recommendation from @Mohammed for our very late lunch and early dinner. This little alleyway outlet was so popular we had to put our name on a wait list! It was worth it - mind you we had to settle for two separate tables for two - otherwise we'd still be waiting. Had another success story with drinks - a lemon, ginger and mint combo which was the perfect accompaniment to the meal.
Made it home in time to host @TheRoyald in our suite for sunset drinks. They had taken the taxi ride with the crazy driver to pick up a couple of bottles of wine. Scored an ice bucket to keep it chilled and pooled our food resources across the two rooms of crackers, chips and apricots to chill out at home.
A late night but no worries, it is a relaxed start again tomorrow
Survival Barometer
Steps: 13 646
Weather: 28 degrees, with onshore breeze
Can you believe that?
A little background from Co-Pilot.
🐐 Goats That Climb Like Birds
Argan goats regularly climb 20–30 feet into thorny argan trees — not just low branches. Entire herds perch there like “bleating Christmas ornaments.” Their hooves have concave undersides and strong dewclaws, giving them insane grip
🥜 They’re Addicted to Argan Fruit
The fruit smells sweet and the pulp is delicious to them. Once they strip the lower branches, they simply… go higher. Up to 84% of their diet can be argan fruit in season.
💩 Argan Oil Has a Goat‑Poop Origin Story
The goats swallow the whole fruit but can’t digest the nut. Traditionally, people collected the excreted nuts, cracked them open, and pressed the kernels to make argan oil — Morocco’s “liquid gold.”
Modern cooperatives mostly skip the poop step, but the legend is true.
💸 They’re a Tourism Economy
Tree‑climbing goats draw travelers from around the world, especially between Essaouira and Agadir. Farmers earn tips, and women’s cooperatives earn income from argan oil production
"I could sit in the tree with those goats."
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