LOCATION: Essaouira
What's happening?
Woke to another blue sky day in Essaouira and enjoyed breakfast before our walk along the shore front to meet-up with local guide @Rasheid for morning sightseeing and a lunch.
The Adventure
A local man, @Rasheid was able to blend perspectives of the old and the new witnessed over his lifetime, as he led us through Essaouira taking in the highlights. Probably our favourite medina - because with a definite north south single street and a matching east west gateway - we actually knew exactly where we were in this medina that was laid out in a perfect grid pattern. An intentional part of the design and development in its establishment in 1760.
Essaouira is historically important because it was Morocco’s Atlantic gateway, a planned royal port, and a cultural crossroads linking the Sahara, Europe, and Africa during the 18th and 19th centuries. It was deliberately built as the official royal port and the only one allowed to trade with Europe. For centuries, caravans crossed the Sahara with gold, ivory, feathers (who knew that - used for pillows and bedding), salt, slaves and Essaouira was the end point of these routes.
Goods arrived from Timbuktu (somewhere between TimbukONE and TimbukTHREE ... @Rasheid was so funny) and the south, then shipped to Europe and the Americas.
We strolled the medina stopping to review the grid pattern, the mosques, community kitchens, schools and water sources. Walked across the courtyard that was originally the area that housed the camel trains and traders and then was the grain market and all was interwoven with the undercurrent story of the way that Jews and Muslims lived in harmony here.
Essaouira once had a major Jewish population (referred to as the “Merchants of the Sultan”). They were trusted by the monarchy to manage international trade and diplomacy. Doorways featured the Star of David and we visited Bayt Dakira — “The House of Memory” - the Jewish museum. It is a space designed to show coexistence between Muslims and Jews, with an exhibit that places a Torah and Quran side by side.
@Rasheid discussed the economic impact of the mass exodus of the Jewish population during the period of 1961-64. This was a drain on key personnel and expertise in the community. I am not sure why, but in most of the cities, the local guides have included a segment about Muslim and Jews living and working together - and acknowledging the contribution of Jewish people to the development of trade, knowledge and skill. Also noting, that in each case almost no Jewish people still live in these communities and where they do gather, a place escort is needed.
Next stop, a little climb so we could take in the best views of the ocean and beach from the ramparts. An impressive ocean and beach view of waves crashing onto rocks, this long ocean‑facing wall was lined with bronze cannons pointing straight at the Atlantic. It was designed in the 1760s by European military engineers. These canons were never fired in defence - no doubt their presence was enough of a deterrent to defend against European naval powers, to protect the caravan trade arriving from the Sahara and control customs and taxation.
Next stop, the fish market. It was a tight cluster of blue-painted stalls, each piled with the morning’s catch from the wall to wall tiny blue boats: a bit stinky by our standards and didn't help that a seagull deposited a big blob of poop on the brim of my hat. Sardines, fat mackerel, red snapper, sole, baby shark, prawns, sea urchins, lobsters, crabs and oysters out in the morning sun ready for you to make a selection.
We had to make choices from the fresh offerings and piled a tray high. Right outside the market are small grill cafés. You hand them your bag of fish. They clean it, season it and grill it over charcoal. Our bag of goodies was whisked away and we moved on to the next highlight.
It was a visit to an artisan workshop - a silver shop - where demonstrations were provided and you could purchase the work. Not tempted.
So that was farewell to @Rasheid and time to catch up with our fish. @Mohammed led us back through the medina and we pulled up a seat with the locals. Our tray was seasoned and ready for the grill. It was served piping hot, with olives, fries and bread. A lot of work going on here to separate bones, scales and shells, but true fish lovers definitely appreciated. The prawns were so tiny, it was a lot of effort to secure a fingernail size of prawn. But we collectively worked our way through it, watching locals for the best strategies for attacking each type of fish.
Tried our bargaining skills in the medina - had some success and didn't get lost which is always a winner. Joined @TheRoyals for sunset on the sea wall and the strong onshore breeze of the late afternoon meant the sky was host to dozens of kite surfers. Cloud again obscured our view of the sun set though.
We have all enjoyed this beautiful city. It is quiet at the moment but on the 25th there will be an influx of some 300 to 400 000 people as they converge on Essaouira for the Gnawa Fusion Festival. A world music festival that blends the sounds of Africa with jazz and features musicians like our dervish busker from Chefchaouen. Apparently, the hippies descend, the city is booked out, people sleep on the beach, the winds whip up and blow the instruments off the stage! The atmosphere (or vibe as @Mohammed describes it) flips from sleepy seaside town to global music capital.Pretty wild and apparently, @Mohammed is making his way back for the entertainment.
Too much lunch meant our 9 o'clock exit from the beach held little or no interest in dinner. Polished off the remaining apricots, washed it down with some cold water and were happy to watch the tide and beach from the comfort of our room.
That is nearly a wrap on Morocco. One little push north tomorrow to Casablanca and we will be done.
Essaouira was built as Morocco’s royal Atlantic port, so the walls had to be strong enough to:defend against European naval powersprotect the caravan trade arriving from the Saharacontrol customs and taxationsecure the Jewish merchant quarter (Mellah) and warehouses
This is the long ocean‑facing wall lined with bronze cannons pointing straight at the Atlantic.
It was designed in the 1760s by European military engineers (inspired by Saint‑Malo in France) and built to:protect the portcontrol tradedefend against European naval attacks
The ramparts and fortifications of Essaouira are the city’s most iconic feature — a blend of Moroccan power, European engineering, and Atlantic drama. They’re not just walls; they’re a stage where wind, waves, cannons, and history all collide.
Survival Barometer
Steps: 17 728
Weather: 28 but it sure feels hotter on that late afternoon walk home!
Can you believe that?
A little background from Co-Pilot.
🎬 Game of Thrones filmed in EssaouiraThe city’s ramparts and crashing waves doubled as Astapor, the Red City, in Game of Thrones.
Walk the Skala and you’re literally on Daenerys’ path to freeing the Unsullied.
🎥 Orson Welles left his markBefore dragons arrived, Orson Welles filmed Othello here in 1952.
There’s even a square named after him — a rare honor for a foreign filmmaker
🎶 The city hosts “African Woodstock”Essaouira’s Gnaoua World Music Festival draws hundreds of thousands of people and turns the medina into a giant open‑air concert.
It’s spiritual, chaotic, hypnotic — and one of the most unique music events on Earth
🧿 A huge Jewish history — once 40% of the cityEssaouira once had one of the largest Jewish populations in North Africa, making up about 40% of residents.
The Mellah still holds synagogues and a large cemetery
🧱 A perfectly designed medinaEssaouira’s medina is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, praised for its preserved 18th‑century architecture and harmonious design.
The name “Essaouira” literally means “the beautifully designed
"Getting ready for horse rides in the beach."
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