An "artistic" photo from our guide taken at Volubilis- he's done this before
LOCATION: Chefchaouen to Volubilis to Fes
What's happening?
On the road again, leaving behind the Rif Mountains and heading towards the Atlas Mountains. Six hours of driving to cover the 200 kilometres broken with a visit to the Roman Ruins of Volubilis before the final destination of Fes.
Breakfast and the walk out of Chefchaouen was our final interaction with "The Blue Pearl." Might be a day of walking - it is three flight of stairs to get to brekkie, three flights to return to the room, three flights to departure, steps from the riad to the road and then the 10 minute walk along the collapsed road to join @Smail at the bus. Phew, you definitely know the day has started.
The Adventure
The drive
This 200 kilometre stretch was a feast for the eyes. It was completed in two parts - the first longer stretch to get us to the ruins (broken by a rest stop and an ice cream) and then the final drag to Fes.
We started with that winding ascent from Chefchaouen surrounded by vivid greens, steep sides and curves and replaced that with a yellowed out, hollowed out agricultural bowl ringed by distant chalked cliffs.
Not sure I've seen so much agricultural production! Genuinely felt like we were travelling through Morocco's pantry. And if the land wasn't used for a fruit tree or vegetable it was filled with stacked hay bales. Although we saw some machinery, the lasting memory was of workers in the field and donkeys overladen and burdened with produce. Mind you, and vehicles carrying hay were overloaded,with metal rafts protruding over the front and reaching from the back like a trailer. Saw some vehicles that had taken that extra reach capacity just a little too far and were pulled over and detained by the police.
@Smail of course had to navigate this combination of traffic - sometimes crawling at 5 kms per hour up both steep and gentle slopes behind any combination of transport, waiting for an opportunity to pass. The drivers of the large vehicles seem to "help" with passing - they take up a position in the middle of the road if passing is not possible and when they can see down the stretch, move over. The donkey drawn carts - they just hold their line.
Can definitely say that olives are king! Their silvery green outline filled the rolling hills. Lots of orchards of pomegranates, figs and oranges and acres of wheat, and plots of beans, chickpeas and loads of vegetables.
It was sort of a "yellow out"" interspersed with vibrant green.
The small villages along the way were busy (ugh, and very dirty) and alive with the business of Saturday markets.
On the livestock side - herds of sheep, goats and cattle again always attended by their owners. Donkeys galore (even a donkey parking lot adjacent to the Saturday narkets) and some horses.
And yes, dogs and cats everywhere!
Pulled onto a servo for a toilet stop and had to cry poor to the attendant because I didn't have any coins. Lucky I had my own stash of loo paper - that seems to be the luxury you are paying for. Did manage to find money for an ice cream though.
It was an uneven pace, jerky fast and slow, twisting and curving ride and unfortunately @Liz's motion sickness kicked in which meant she was a little unsteady on her feet for our arrival at Volubilis.
The Romam Ruins of Volubilis
Met up with the local guide @Merkyl for the 90 minute wander through the ruins. He was full of stories and explanations and carried a squirting water bottle as his laser pointer. If he needed to highlight a detail to draw your eye to the exact spot, he would squirt water onto the dusty surface. Simple and effective.
Volubilis is a UNESCO World Heritage site located about 60 km west of the city of Fes. It is one of the best-preserved and furthest southwestern Roman outposts in North Africa. The Romans were in Volubilis because it was a fertile agricultural hub and a strategic frontier outpost — they wanted its olive oil, grain, and livestock, and used the city to secure the empire’s western edge in North Africa.
At the moment, the estimate is that we were accessing 40% of the city, the remaining 60% still buried by time and earthquakes.
It was hot, devoid of shade and dusty but @Merkyl kept us going - explaining the layout, the monuments and structures and retelling the stories of the mosaics. He even rustled up a chameleon hiding in a tree trunk to round out the walk.
Strolled through the forum, visited the homes of the wealthy merchants, followed the aqueducts and waterways, retraced the chariot routes, visited the olive pressing rooms and storage vats and wandered through the nath houses, spas and latrines and of course posed under the Grand Triumphal Arch.
Sort of funny, because in a couple of weeks well be doing something similar in Bath with @Leanne and @Gary.
Although we were engrossed and @Merkyl was setting a slow pace we were quite relieved at the "time's up" call and headed back to shade and refreshments.
Back to @Smail for the last part of the journey and the white outline of the city, against the yellow of the Atlas mountains soon welcomed us.
@Smail got us close to our riad but we did have to drag our luggage the last 200 metres to the door of Al Makan. Mint tea as a greeting gesture, warm gentle hostess to welcome us to elaborate Moroccan comfort. Home for two days - in our hour of down time - unpacked and put the sunlight soap to work.
Dinner hosted on a local riad and medina walk
Ventured into the medina for our "typical Moroccan meal" experience. What a maze the medina was - our host actually came to the square to collect us and led us through the alleys and up stairs and through the end of day rubbish of probably 10 of the 9000 alleys in this ancient medina.
The door opened to an expansive villa. All mosaic and blue and white under the towering skylit roof. These places are such a contrast to the outside world.
With @Mohammed as the head of the table we chowed down on a Moroccan salad (bread with choices from 10 starter plates) and followed with the chicken pastilles (a flaky crust dusted with cinnamon and icing sugar, filled with a chicken, vegetable and spice mix) before finishing with fruit The conversation flowed, the tastes analysed and the day was relived. Easy company and interesting tastes and presentation of food. Not something we'd race back for, but between the three men, every plate offered was scraped clean!
Escorted out, driven back to the corner near our riad and with crystal clear instructions from @Mohammed (go to the post office, turn left, turn right at the square and don't go beyond the gate - he definitely doesn't want us lost) the four of us took off for an independent stroll. Just so happens we took the wrong left at the Post Office and were in the belly of the medina without even knowing it. Took photos at every turn and after our own little, left, left and left we did find our selves at the gate and the square. It was packed in the alleyways. Lots to see. Lots of restaurants and vendors to by pass. But everyone was respectful - asking "where are you from" and saying 'Welcome to Morocco. "
So many sweet treats on offer. So much juicing. And bees everywhere. We thought we might grab a coffee at a Cafe but they were filled solely with men. The women were outside across the street sitting on park benches. Didn't feel we could be the only two ladies inside.
Didn't risk correcting our return journey by heading down what we thought was the route we should have taken. Instead, returned inside the gate and thankfully popped out at the Post Office.
Setlled into our absolutely beautiful riad (my goodness - this 16th century villa is jaw dropping - our room is massive with raking carved ceiling, expansive seating area with plush couch and sequenced and tasselled cushions, silk drapes, arched windows and latticed wood panelling- crazy) to rest up for a visit to the other 8 990 alleys of the medina we haven't traipsed as yet.
Go the Socceroos
Survival Barometer
Steps: 14 523
Weather: hot and sticky 36
Can you believe that?
A little background from Co-Pilot.
Morocco’s olive groves are full of quirks — some trees planted by the Romans near Meknes are still producing olives today, and the country relies almost entirely on one hardy variety, the Picholine marocaine, which makes up over 95% of its olive trees. Harvest season is so central that rural schools adjust their schedules around it, turning olive picking into a family‑wide event.
Today's Spot the J clue - there are two!
"Enjoying my dinner night out with a local family too."
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